The Universal Food Store makes the quaint village of Noank a “community.” Julie Sutphen Wechsler, now living in Maryland, returned to the neighborhood where she once lived. She spoke at the Noank Historical Society’s annual meeting and potluck supper, June 18, in the Latham Chester Store. Curator Mary Anderson gave a brief history in her opening comments for the program, titled “How the Universal Store Reinforces Community in Noank.”
Plain-talking Frank Quaratella Sr. stoked the standing-room-only crowd into warm applause and a loud appeal: “Come on Frank. Stand up Frank.” Frank stood and spoke briefly.
The members of the Historical Society- now boasting 460-plus members- filled in the store reminiscing about the bygone days and praising recent renovations. For some, memories bring the people together in this community.
Seated elbow-to-elbow at tables during the supper, residents reminisced about living on a little peninsular place that is unique. Mary Bradley Foster recalled that she was “about age 10 or so and would have to pick something up from the Universal for her grandmother.” It was an easy task. “You just told them what you wanted and they would get it for you,” she said. Mary was born in a house on Front Street and lived there until about 1949.
Howard Davis, seated nearby, remembered that his grandmother (the late Mrs. Charles Specht) would place an early morning order that would be delivered by noon. The total amount owed would be written on one of the delivered paper bags.
Alicia Crossman remembered her wishful window viewing of a special cookie that was not affordable until she grew old enough to earn babysitting money. She was finally able to pay the 10 cents for the chocolate covered cookie.
Even the dogs had their days, courtesy of Universal. Sal Quaratella, it was said, handed out bone treats so big the canines could barely walk with their trophies. Also, once upon a time, there were dances on the top third floor.
Pat Quaratella and Dan Simonelli bought the property and opened the Universal Store in 1947. And, the rest is history in the making ever since. The third floor was once the location for Van Zandt Sails. It was the site of Joe Quaratella’s wedding. A young man – then a recording artist – fell in love with the village in the 1970’s and wanted a place to live. Dean Wallace found it – courtesy of that same “community” spirit. He still has a small apartment in the building. In 1989, Frank Quaratella, Sal’s son, took over ownership of the Universal Store.
Recently, Steve Jones purchased the real estate. Congrats Steve! The Quaratella name remains and is the signature to Noank as “community” in the finest sense of the word. A heartfelt thanks to the Quartellas, for all you were in the past, and all you will be in the future. You are community!
Roses were plentiful. The air was perfumed with a sweetness that compelled noses to sniff repeatedly at the annual Rose Show, sponsored by the Woman’s City Club on Saturday, June 14, at the Rose City Senior Center in Norwich.
The display was a picture of quiet elegance, an act of monumental proportions with special accolades to Joyce Brewster, Chairwoman, of Griswold and Diana Tennant, Co-Chair, of Norwich. They work quietly and deliberately for the one big day that heralds the rose and the city’s signature as “The Rose of New England.”
Rose shows are complicated events, demanding hauling in equipment to properly display the entries. The big day starts in pre-dawn hours for registration that takes nearly two hours as people line up with entries. Joyce and Diana write details of arrangements on paper slips that hide the name of the person making the entry. The judges do not see the names. They see only the number assigned for the entry. Joyce and Diana turn the paper slips over to reveal names after the judges complete their tour and chart the numbers of the winners for first, second, third, honorable mentions and Best of Show in the horticulture and design divisions.
The judges are carefully protected from any outside interference. They arrive and depart without any connection with the public. Those who have brought entries are required to leave the premises while the judges circulate the room. The doors open for general viewing after they leave the building. Then the entrants can return to learn the fate of their entries.
While some may be disappointed, there are more happy surprises. The learning curve is paramount as Joyce and Diana circulate and give information and advice about the needs of roses.
Many of the City Club members come with younger family members. Thirteen-year-old Jane Conway attended with her grandmother, Barbara Papelian, and entered her first-ever arrangement. She said she plans to enter again in 2009. Her grandmother beamed.
I myself am an ongoing entrant in the rose shows. I also had some surprises. My entry in the category “In the Kitchen” was a rich chocolate cake in a heart-shaped pan. Pale pink spray roses and baby’s breath decorated the edges. It didn’t win. But the entry in the Colonial category got me a blue ribbon first prize and a large gold ribbon, “Best in Show.” The entry number was 13. My contemporary arrangement, with a tall spray of white roses offset by cactus blossoms, also captured a first place.
David Candler won “Best in Show” for the horticulture division, and also took several other first place awards. First place winners included Ursula Bishop, Sandy Candler, Joyce Brewster, Arlene Sweet, Barbara Leitkowski, James Handy, and Linda Puetz.
Every town has hidden treasures, and Center Groton has one of the best – Red Fence Farm – with 5.5-plus acres on Daboll Road, not far from Wal-Mart on Route 184. Owned by Art and Cherrie Hiles for 20 years, it is the home for some very special cows, pigs, chickens, turkeys, pheasants, and a few rabbits. One lone donkey named Diogenes gets immediate attention with his greeting – a strong, loud bray that commands attention.
“He doesn’t get along with any of the other animals, so he gets to stay here by himself. He’s actually my favorite,” said Cherrie as she stroked the donkey’s head. His greeting makes him a favorite for school children and other guests who visit the farm from time to time by appointment.
The farm use is “grandfathered,” going back to a man named Daboll. But lineage is not what makes the site so special. It is the dedication of Art and Cherrie that deserves applause. All the animals they have sought out are antique breeds being raised to preserve those lines. Both Art and Cherrie are employed in other jobs; he is employeed at Wal-mart and she works at Noank Baptist Group Homes.
The Hiles are also committed to preserving the family farm lifestyle – providing quality and chemical-free food. Everything raised at Red Fence Farm is naturally grown, grass fed and pastured. What the owners do not use for their own food is sold, but supplies are limited. Turkeys are reserved months before the holidays begin. Butchering and packaging of beef, pork and poultry is completed in spotless quarters.
The biggest animals are the Highland cattle, an ancient Scottish breed. Their horns are long. And although the wavy coat colors can vary, those at Red Fence Farm are a light red. Art emphasizes that the meat tends to be leaner than most meat.
The pigs also have reddish coats. They are Tamworths – “threatened in the US.” More pigs will be bred at Red Fence Farm. Some will be sold. The breed originated in England.
Bourbon Red Turkeys are almost as noisy as Diogenes when visitors approach. Named for Bourbon County in the bluegrass region of Kentucky, they are handsome and fan their chestnut red plumage with exuberance.
Turkey and pheasant chicks get their start in a heated and protected shelter. There are also free range chickens – especially needed as layers for eager consumers who enjoy fresh eggs. An entire flock was killed recently. “Foxes, raccoons, Fisher cats, hawks – any of ‘em can do it. We lost all the laying hens in one night,” said Art. The risk, he acknowledges, is part of life on any farm.
Both he and Cherrie, express their satisfaction with a lifestyle that cherishes nature and all its wonders. Shrubs around the front of their home are bright pink – a color that attracts hummingbirds. The home is cozy with natural woodwork throughout – a pantry, cabinets, and other pieces built by Art. A bedroom bay window brings nature indoors with space for numerous plants that create a cascade of greenery.
The Groton farm is open for tours for school children and groups by appointment. For reservations or to purchase produce call 860.446.8929.
John Whitman “Whit” Davis will be 84 years old on August 3, and for all his life he will be a proud farmer. “I was 11 years old when my father bought me a Shetland pony and a two-wheeled donkey cart. That spring he helped me plant a garden and taught me how to take care of it,” recalls Whit. “Then he said I could keep the money from whatever I could grow and sell.”
He did a milk route with his father, and followed the same route with the cart as he peddled the vegetables he grew. “I recently came across my account book that I kept back then. I sold 133 bunches of radishes at three cents a bunch,” he says, grinning. He earned a total of $75 that summer with sales of raspberries, squash, corn, lettuce and tomatoes. It was the making of Farmer John, or Whit, as he is known to thousands throughout the area and those who frequent the multi-acreage farm, at the end of Greenhaven Road in Pawcatuck.
At the time of the interview, sweet corn was being planted. The rich black soil was already greening up with early vegetables. The pride Whit takes in his work is evident as he speaks. A sign, “No Farmers, No Food,” is on the red truck he drives from his Ledyard home to the farm.
“What would people eat if we didn’t plant?” he wonders aloud. He says Americans must recognize the value of farm-raised food. What comes in from faraway places carries too many unknowns. “I don’t use any pesticides or chemicals; don’t want to handle it, don’t want it in my soil, or on my food,” he declares.
The soil, Whit says, can provide some economic savings along with hearty dishes. He knows when and what to plant, when and how to harvest, and all the other points of gardening wisdom. All he has learned will be shared with others in a journal he is writing. He described a friend’s philosophy: “Always try to put an older head on a young pair of shoulders.” And a good farmer, he says, needs to think ahead about the world’s food needs.
A younger person can take what Whit knows and start out with that information, and avoid the trials and errors of “playing catch-up.” He believes his words can be a great guide.
“I’m keeping track of what I plant, when I plant, when I pick. So, somewhere down the line, a younger person benefits. All they’ll have to do is pick up that journal. They won’t have to be 80 years old before they know what works best for this area.”
For now, Whit’s continuing the annual planting of
fields. Acres of corn seeds are already warming in
the ground, ready to break through the earth and
yield tender ears in many varieties. Information
about all his garden products can be obtained by calling 860.445.0787.
