It’s an easy snobbery to dismiss the larger Californian wineries, but true wine aficionados know that some of them were groundbreakers (metaphorically as well as literally), that their high-end wines are apt to be spectacular and that even their mass-produced wines can conceal some pleasant surprises. A case in point was the Robert Mondavi dinner that I attended on August 19th at Octagon in the Mystic Marriott. [...]